Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving

Soon we will be celebrating, and since all of us Peace Corps Trainees will surely be homesick, my group is gathering for our own special Thanksgiving feast.  We will have turkey and as much of the traditional items we can manage.  I am going to bring a variation of a Waldorf salad; I can find the apples and walnuts in the bazar (market), but no celery—can’t find it here; so instead I will add pomegranates, of which there are plenty, since Azerbaijan is the pomegranate capital of this region.  We even plan on playing some games, and maybe watching an American movie on someone’s DVD player; it’ll almost be like home.

When I told my host mom about my plans to celebrate the American Holiday with other Peace Corps friends, she right away offered to make some Azerbaijani holiday specialty to send along to our gathering—she’s making “plov,” an Azerbaijani version of rice pilaf, which contains dried fruits, raisins, onions, and lots of oil; it’s delicious.

Tuesday I meet with my upcoming host-country national counterpart, someone from the university in Mingechavir.  We will all be gathering to meet our counterparts in a hotel in Xirdalan, and it not only should be a nice affair, but I am very anxious to get acquainted and find out more about the job expectations.  Some I have already heard, and my assignment may include a lot of traveling around the country, holding training seminars.  That should be lots of fun.  I am also excited to re-establish some connections I made some weeks ago in Mingechavir, including the university conversation club, the school and teachers I visited, the Peace Corps Volunteers already working there, and the new ones, along with myself.

Internet

Internet

Frequently I have had such limited internet access.  But for most Azerbaijanis, the use of the computer and the internet are just not practical things in life.  In my host family, the father wanted to try out my lap-top, and had great difficulty figuring out how to control the curser/mouse.  He had never tried nor seen a computer before in person. Many schools in Azerbaijan do not make use of computers or have internet connections.  And given that our training school in Masazir does not have reliable heat or indoor lavoratories, there are more basic school priorities.  Actually the school here does have some computers, but they are in a room locked away and not used.  In many regions outside of Baku, most people do not have computer access and are not taught to use them.

There are, however, the internet cafes/clubs.  Initially we could not understand why these were only places for young men and teenaged boys, but now we realize that these are places for them to hang out and play video games!!  These internet cafes are usually just small establishments, dark and uninviting, where doing research or searching the internet and/or checking email is not their primary purpose. Though many college-aged Azerbaijanis do have good computer and internet skills, with Facebook accounts, etc., most of the population does not.  So, it is assumed by the average family (especially in the regions, outside of Baku) that no respectable girl or young woman would go to a place where young men and boys just hang out to play violent video games.  It is not that women are not allowed in internet cafes per se, but for the most part it is considered culturally inappropriate.  However, our training group was able to make some connections with local internet café operators, explaining that we Americans (women included) need internet access to conduct business, check mail, and access information for our jobs.  We are now graciously welcomed, and they double-check frequently to make sure things are operating well.  Of course, with the frequent power outages, and with the fact that the closest such internet cafe is in the next town, we still have limited access and opportunity, especially since we have language classes and technical training sessions that last all day, and for safety and security reasons, we are not allowed to travel after dark. (Best chance to use internet is at the P.C office in Xirdalan, which we all try to make use of--see photos)

The use of internet cafes is yet another example of the importance of maintaining a good reputation here.  Women and girls never go to such establishments, because (except for us American Peace Corps volunteers) the internet cafes’ image is one of simply a place for video-game playing.  It would raise questions and cause unwanted gossip if an Azerbaijani girl (with no computer knowledge, skills, or interest) would go into this teen-aged male domain.  No family would want to dare ruin a girl’s reputation.  And no self-respecting girl would want to risk her reputation either, nor that of her family, by going to a place normally frequented only by men.  This attitude holds true also for the ubiquitous tea-houses (çayxana)—a woman does not go to them, for then she might be subjected to unwanted attention and harassment.  Those tea-houses that women can and do go to, often have small rooms or closed off alcoves, where women can comfortably sit without unwanted attention.  Unwanted harassment results because men and women alike know and expect to follow certain social rules—and stepping out of bounds is considered so unacceptable, that it basically invites and compounds additional rude and unacceptable behavior.  Once you understand the reasoning, it is easier to accept, adapt to, and figure out ways to manage around the social rules that are different from what we are used to at home.

There are definite gender role differences here.  It is a male-dominated society, and yet there are signs that things are changing—especially in cosmopolitan Baku, but these changes are not always welcomed out in the “regions” which is how the rest of Azerbaijan is referred to.  In my host family, the mother certainly manages and takes care of the house-hold, while the father works outside the home and earns the money for the family.  Nonetheless, I was surprised to see him vacuuming the house, and even washing the dishes.  This is not the norm, I expect.  Many of the local young women who work for the Peace Corps are single, and not interested in marrying a man their parents may chose for them—they readily admit this is not easy, since family bonds and loyalty to parents are very strong, yet they want to pursue careers, too.  Usually by the time a young woman has reached her mid-twenties, she is considered “old” for marriage, and there can be a lot of family pressure put on her to marry—and on men, too, though it is expected that the male be somewhat older.  One day, while showing my host family some of my things, I showed them my driver’s license:  “You know how to drive a car???!!!” they exclaimed.  Outside of Baku, I have yet to see any woman behind the wheel of a car—and perhaps this explains the wild and crazy driving here!!  Another male dominated aspect of this society!  When she rides in a car, the woman is always expected to sit in the back, and interestingly the word for “driver” is ‘shofer’—like chauffeur.  Perhaps the father in my host family is more docile than the drivers on the roads and a man with domestic instincts, because like many Azerbaijani families, my host family has no car.

An excellent insight into Azerbaijan and its culture is found in the book “Culture Smart! Azerbaijan” by Nikki Kazimova,  www.culturesmart.co.uk. 

Mr. Ambassador...a wedding...a birthday

Mr. Ambassador…a wedding…a birthday

What an honor it was to have the U.S. Ambassador to Azerbaijan (a Stanford man, no-less!) pay us all a visit on one of our group training days.  Very interesting discussions were held about the challenges and benefits of serving in this part of the world.  We are truly at the cross-roads of Europe and Asia, not only in a geographical sense, but also in mentality.  It is important to keep a focus on enhancing our mutual interests, for the betterment and benefit of all.  Understanding and learning to appreciate the cultural differences, including values that our different from our own, is important—and quite fascinating.

Tomorrow I have been invited to the wedding celebration of a niece of the father of my host family.  Weddings here are very lavish affairs.  Every town, indeed most villages, have very elaborate “wedding palaces,” beautifully and ornately decorated halls for fabulously catered events.  The wedding couple sits at the head table and is honored by hours of feasting and merry-making, singing and dancing.  Marriages here are still frequently arranged, or semi-arranged.  Protocol calls for the prospective groom’s family members to go calling on a prospective bride’s family for tea.  (The couple is not included).  If all goes well during this visit, it may be agreed upon that the couple in question may become engaged.  In many families dating between a young man and woman can takes place AFTER they have become engaged in this manner, meaning the families involved have agreed to the marriage.  Given that this is their custom, one can understand why family reputation, as well as individual reputation, is very important.  Families will go to great lengths to preserve the reputations of their members, especially of their daughters, so that they will remain marriageable.  Some of the mores imposed on young women in this society are therefore meant to preserve the family structure.  We Americans might ponder that out of love for our children, we will give them the freedom to develop their individuality; Azerbaijanis might ponder that for the very same reason--out of love for their children, they will protect and control the manner in which they are raised up to, including, and even after they are married.  In all societies, as here, parents want what is best for their children, but what is best in American society is not necessarily what will be viewed as what is best in this society.  Growing up in Azerbaijan, children here are very well aware that their behavior and outward appearance greatly influences their reputations and the reputations of their families.  As Americans, we might say, it doesn’t matter what others say or think about us, it is important that we have the freedom to do as we please.  To Azerbaijanis, it does matter what others think or say, because preserving a good reputation for oneself and for the sake of the family influences the success and future of all involved. These arranged marriages and the social restrictions on young people can be viewed as trying to protect that which will enhance a young person’s opportunity to marry and to eventually have a family of his or her own.  It is how they preserve their society and the social fabric of their culture that is of value to them.

Maintaining good a reputation is similar to the importance of outward appearances, which is also very important here on  many levels, and this is sometimes quite a challenge.  For example, in many regions of Azerbaijan, very professional attire is necessary for a classroom teacher—it shows respect for the profession, and means suits and ties for men, skirts and dress shoes for women.  The challenge is that the roads are dusty and dirty in dry weather, and very muddy during winter months (few if any side-walks).  Some take extra shoes along to change once at school, but there is also a small fountain on the playground, where teachers and students alike can wet a rag and wipe off the mud from their shoes or trousers before entering the school building.  And just to make sure, there are the “shoe patrol” ladies by the front entrance who will reprimand and send anyone back over to the fountain if their shoes are still muddy or dirty.  So far I have managed to always pass inspection, and have even been told several times I dress appropriately and professionally.  Good thing I brought along those black skirts and good shoes!

Lately we have had many power outages, indeed everyday at least!  The electrical infrastructure cannot handle the load, and with the weather getting colder, there are more demands.  My host family’s modest home is heated by several electric space heaters, so when the electricity goes out, we lose our source of heating.  The house is not insulated, and there are cracks around the door frame, so it is difficult to keep the home warm.  There is a small wood burning stove in the corridor, and that does help some, but it basically just warms the entry-way.  But the hearts of these people are so warm, it is easy to forget about the minor discomforts.

Today is son Mark’s birthday.  My host family wanted to help me celebrate it, so in honor of Mark, the father in the family brought home a nice birthday cake from the bakery, and we sang happy birthday to Mark.  What kind and thoughtful people!  They wanted to wish Mark, a Californian, a happy birthday all the way from Azerbaijan!  Our meal, too, was a special “birthday meal,” just for Mark; unbeknownst to me, the big chicken the mother in the family de-feathered and plucked the day before, was for the special stewed chicken dinner, which she prepared for “Mark’s birthday dinner.”  The fact that I thought de-feathering and plucking a chicken (toyuq) was worthy of photos and video-taping was a source of huge amusement here.

Schools...

Schools…

The Big Day arrived and site announcements were made, our permanent assignments; I am very proud and happy that my original Peace Corps nomination is being fulfilled at the University in Mingəçevir!!!!  Yay!

We had more practicums last week.  Some interesting differences exist for schools here.  For example, several weeks ago, when I was in Mingəçavir, the school assembly honoring Azerbaijan Independence Day was very impressive, and truly worthy of local news coverage.  However, the local TV station (interestingly enough known as “MTV”!—Mingəçavir TV) did not come.  Apparently there wasn’t enough in the school budget to get the local TV station to send a reporter and film crew to cover the story; the school usually pays the local station to get the TV news department to come to do a news story about the school.  Another difference is that most school teachers do not teach the entire school day; they receive various class assignments from the principal, and the more experienced ones usually get more classes to teach.  But the pay is not sufficient, so most teachers also work as private tutors after school, to supplement their incomes.  During the school day, many teachers do not have assigned classrooms, and in some schools the classrooms are also are not numbered.  So, when the bell rings between class periods, students and teachers alike scramble the halls, with the teachers looking for spare or empty classrooms in which to hold their classes, and students following, trying to find and keep up with their teachers.  For practicum, it was at first a bit of a challenge to figure out this system and find the rooms in which we were to teach (or if the classes had been cancelled, which can also happen). But everything is so well worth it—these are students very eager to learn, interested and excited to be able to participate in class.  It is a LOT of fun!

This week is a school holiday for Gurban Bayram, a holiday commemorating Abraham’s sacrifice of a sheep instead of his son.  On Sunday there were ritual slaughters of sheep in some families, with the meat being then shared with neighbors, especially the poor.  My host family was the recipient of such a gift of meat, which we then ground up and filled home-made raviolis, which were then steamed in a broth, making one of Azerbaijan’s national dishes, düşbərə.  What a treat.  And it was quite a family production to make it all, by candle light no less, since the electricity was out all day.  The hot plate in the kitchen, though, is gas, so we could still cook.  We warmed up after dinner in the kitchen by huddling around the small wood stove in the corridor, which the father in my host family set up for just such rather frequent occasions; the power grid here is frequently overtaxed, and we are often without electricity.  And since our heat is electric, we really do need it; it can get very cold.  It has already snowed once, and the schools also are not heated well and also frequently without electricity.  I am making good use of every bit of warm clothing I brought, and am coping well by following what everyone else does here to make the best of things, including doing my homework by candle-light or karosene lamp.  After dinner we even had a rousing game of dominoes around the hot wood stove:  America versus Azerbaijan...I did my best, and America won one round, but Azerbaijan won two.  What fun!  My language skills are slowly but surely improving, though I think I mainly amuse and bemuse rather than inform or converse every time I try to speak...oh, well.  For the holiday my host family gave me a gift, too—a ring to match a pair of earrings I frequently wear.  The family refers to me as a member of their family, or alternatively, as their “honored guest.”  They have shown me enormous hospitality.  These experiences and getting to know such wonderful people are the things I love most about being in the Peace Corps, which goes by the motto:  “the hardest/toughest job you’ll ever love.”

Last Saturday my training group was able to go into Baku, and what a fascinating and interesting place!  Hope to get back again soon, to explore more of the walled old town and other sites.